the beautiful monster : follow up

In the last day, Rescue Missions for the missing climbers on Mt. Hood have ceased and any further efforts will be now deemed a recovery mission. Most likely, no more evidence or clues or bodies will be found until the spring thaw. Since tuesday, when I made my last post, there has been more press and more debate on the climbers, their timeline, what may have happened, and also the whole rescue beacon debate (which will always rage).

Here is a follow up gathered from local news sources:

TIMELINE of ACTIVITIES

(based on KGW.com)

Friday, Dec. 11, 2009

1 a.m. Anthony Vietti, Katie Nolan and Luke Gullberg register at Timberline Lodge intending to summit Mt. Hood via the Reid Glacier route. The trio had an active cell phone

1:30 a.m. One of the climbers activates the cell phone, most likely while still in the lodge's vicinity

2 p.m. The climbers expected to be back at Timberline having completed their 13-hour summit

4 p.m. A worried friend reports the climbers missing

Late evening: A threatening weather system begins moving into NW Oregon

Saturday, Dec. 12, 2009

Early morning: Clackamas County coordinates 30 volunteers to search for climbers

10 a.m. The body of Luke Gullberg was found on the Reid Glacier above 9,000-feet elevation, near the base of a headwall. Searchers find a camera with close-up photos of all three climbers.
Family of climbers arrive, along with chaplains from Sandy and nearby communities

3 p.m. Volunteers continue the search; weather conditions become treacherous with limited visibility, preventing aerial support from helicopters or planes

Sunday, Dec. 13, 2009

Severe weather conditions across NW Oregon create zero-visibility, blizzard conditions on Mt. Hood and the threat of avalanches and falling ice prevents Search and Rescue efforts.

Churches and congregations across the country offer prayers and support for the three climbers, who were deeply religious and had met during church activities

Monday, Dec. 14, 2009

5:30 a.m. Search and rescue efforts begin with aerial surveillance from Civil Air Patrol, Oregon Army National Guard and the U.S. Coast Guard. A NWS meteorologist arrives and identifies a four-hour window for optimal searching, between noon and 4 p.m.

10 a.m. A press conference with the Search and Rescue coordinators and the family of Anthony Vietti
Lead Rescue coordinator narrows the search to the 10,000-foot-to-summit elevations of Mt. Hood's western face

12 p.m. Conditions clear enough for US Air Force Rescue Squadron to begin scaling upper reaches of Mt. Hood

3 p.m. State medical examiners determine Luke Gullberg died from hypothermia and had suffered minor "non-life-threatening" injuries in a fall

3:30 p.m. Another weather system moves in and forecasters predict 18 inches of new snow. Aerial search suspended.

5:00 p.m. Vigils held from Portland to Longview, Wash. by friends, coworkers and acquaintances of the three climbers.

6:30 p.m. Search effort suspended for day. Experts predict that the two climbers could remain safe in a snow cave for five days with provisions and without injury

Tuesday, Dec. 15, 2009

5:30 a.m. Blizzard-like conditions and a "white wall of snow" delay search efforts
Military arrives with aerial support and ground squadrons canvassing mountain
Coordinators say the moment weather lets up all rescuers will be "instantly deployed"

10 a.m. Search and Rescue specialized medic arrives to speak with family about survivability scenarios

11 a.m. Coordinators reassure family that operation remains "search and rescue" and not "recovery"

4 p.m. Dr. Teri Schmidt, a search and rescue special medic, said the odds of finding Nolan or Vietti alive after five days on the mountain were about 1 percent.

4:30 p.m. Investigators reveal that Gullberg may have died while trying to rescue Nolan. Search and rescue effort suspended until early Wednesday, when Blackhawk helicopters were scheduled to resume efforts.

Wednesday, Dec. 16, 2009

2 p.m. The massive search for Katie Nolan and Anthony Vietti was suspended. Clackamas County Sheriff's Office said rescue efforts would transition to a recovery mission once the harsh weather abated atop Mount Hood.

Katie's father, David Nolan, said his daughter was now buried upon the mountain she most loved - where she'd told her friends she someday wanted to be buried.

Anthony's father, John Vietti, asked those who had offered support and prayers to not lose faith in God. "God has answered our prayers - and for myself and my family this has not shaken our faith."

What the conditions were like last Friday on Mt. Hood:

What is determined that happened:

"Crews had hoped for a break in the weather Wednesday for one last possible air search over Mt. Hood but the storm never abated. A series of snowstorms dumped nearly two feet of snow on Mt. Hood since Monday. Images from the cell phone of the third climber, 26-year-old Luke Gullberg, whose body was found Friday, revealed that all three climbers reached Reid Glacier, and suggest that there was an accident involving Nolan. Investigators believe Gullberg then tried to rappel to get help.

Investigators suspect Nolan was injured because mountaineers found just one of her gloves Saturday with the body of Gullberg at the base of the Reid headwall. The slope rises at a 50-degree angle from the glacier to within a few hundred feet of relatively easier climb to the top above 11,000 feet. They found neither of Gullberg's gloves, Thompson said, leading them to think that Nolan had lost one of hers in the accident, that Gullberg had left her his glove, along with his pack, and that he had headed downhill, taking Nolan's single glove for whatever warmth it would provide. After a fall in which he suffered bruises and scrapes, Gullberg died of exposure. His body was found at the 9,000 foot level, at the base of the 1,500-foot headwall of the Reid Glacier. Nearby were tracks and some of his equipment, including a camera whose pictures gave rescue workers information about the route and equipment the climbers took." -kgw.com

As well, more news about the climbers and their short, but full lives:

An interview with one of Katie's clients she helped get off the streets:

The Mazamas explain the appeal of climbing Mt. Hood in the winter:

Why Portland Mountain Rescue opposes mandatory beacon usage:

closure and full report from local media:

In summary, I will close with this comment that Katie's father made regarding her and the incident. When I heard it on the raw video footage, it really hit a vein with me as I've shared that exact thought. I am sure that Katie and the two others climbers, when assessing their risk before setting out for their climb thought the same thing to themselves as I do when I set out... that, if today were to be the day when it all ends for me... that I can't think of a better place or a better way to end it. I can't say that she was lucky, but is really is quite fitting that she was able to have a poetic ending as such.

"Katie loved the mountain so much she wanted to be buried up there. And right now she is," said Nolan

the beautiful monster

So, as I'm sure many of you have heard already, recently three very experienced climbers went missing last Friday when they attempted to climb Oregon's infamous Mt. Hood. At 1am when they left their truck in the Timberline Parking lot and filled out their climb report, conditions were good. Conditions were to stay good for most of the day, but then turn nasty as the evening progressed. Ideally, they were not figuring on being out that long. For a 1am departure, you hope to reach summit by 7-8am, and then back down the mountain to their car by 3pm. They had gear they needed, harnesses, helmets, ice axes; though, no emergency beacons and no snow shovels. Their climbing report was sloppy though, they wrote down the wrong names for things and appeared to write info for routes that were on the other side of the Mountain.

The climbers were Luke Gullberg 26, Katie Nolan 29, and Anthony Vietti 24. All of them have climbed mountains together before, Adams, Rainier, Mt. Baker. In fact, Luke Gullberg had already summited Mt. Hood six times prior while Anthony was a member of Olympic Mountain Rescue. I'm sure, in the back of their head.... it was no big thing, easy up - easy down. Granted, they were taking one of the hardest routes up the Mountain... but, these were people who seemingly didn't take the easy route, while climbing or in life.

The other day, searchers found the body of Luke Gullberg near 9,000 ft. at the Reid Glacier. Gear, harness, helmet, etc was scattered all over the slope of the mountain near his body. Apparently included in this gear was a camera containing photos of everyone shortly before "something bad happened". One of the photos shows Gullberg anchored to the snow and the ice of the Reid Headwall, apparently with two snow screws. Seemingly, a rope led from the anchors to his secured harness. Autopsy reports determined that Luke had a long slow fall, but that's not what killed him. In fact, he had minimal cuts scrapes and bruises and it's very likely that he was able to walk and crawl for several hundred yards. Luke died from hypothermia, from exposure.

As I type, Katie and Anthony have not been found yet. In the three days of searching as weather has allowed, each hour that passes makes the chance that they hunkered down in a snow cave and are still alive grow fainter and fainter.

My mind is wrapped around the this story. I am confused and I try, much like everyone else... to figure out what might have happened. What was the "something bad?" Who was it who went first? How high were they? Were they roped together (some of the prior photos show they were)? Was there a fall, a crevasse? How long were they out there? Did they have sufficient gear with them to stay warm or eat in case of emergency? Were they trying to climb light and fast? Why wasn't Luke's backpack on him? Why did he have Katie's water bottle and glove? Did Luke go for help after the two of them ran into problems and built a snow cave? There are so many possibilities and so many scenarios that I gobble up all the latest news about the incident... hoping that there is a better idea of what happened, but alas.... no one knows.

Personally, like many others, I want to know. I want to understand. I want to be prepared. I want to know the details so that I don't make the same mistakes they did. I don't want to be a statistic. It's been a goal of mine since I moved out here to climb the 11,249 ft Mt. Hood - and only inclimate weather has turned me around thus far. Honestly, even considering all the tragedy that has happened on the mountain over the years... it hasn't scared me away..... it only makes me want to understand it more. The mountain is a beast of nature. It can provide for an afternoon of fun as quickly as it can provide for a lifetime of terror. It demands respect and understanding. You never really ever conquer the mountain and if given the opportunity, it can quickly conquer you. And, because it is there, because it is so close and accessible, because it is one of the most beautiful and dangerous things we have ever seen... we are drawn to it.

Another reason this story is so captivating, is that currently, we only know so much about the climbers involved. At first glance of a news story, you see their name, their age, and their home. I identify with one of them. Though our lives may be entirely different, the truth is on paper that Katie Nolan, 29 of Portland Oregon loved climbing mountains and challenging herself. I, Jenn Levo, 29 years old of Portland Oregon, love climbing mountains and challenging myself. I don't know Katie, but it's very possible that our lives crossed paths at some point... at the climbing gym, at an outdoors event. It's hard to say... but I identify with her. She got connected with the two men because she was often going out hiking and climbing and doing it alone. Someone introduced her to one of the other so she had "people" and then they became fast friends with a shared interest in the great outdoors. Most of my friends that I have here in Portland I've found through the same way. Katie could be me, she could also be one of my friends.

In the days since the incident... more news about the life of Katie Nolan has come to surface. She, as well as the two men, were deeply religious people (in fact, I don't know how you can spend time in the outdoors and not believe in God.) Katie apparently worked in Portland for an organization which helped get women off the streets and into jobs and homes. She even went to Africa once to help free women from the slave trade. It appears as if all of them were good people who essentially had their faith and believed in helping others as well as a love and appreciation for the outdoors. (That doesn't mean that good people don't die... good people die every day, but losses are just a little more heartbreaking when the people are young, decent folks with a zest for life rather than cracked out thieves and hoodlums, right?)

In light of everything and the time that has passed since they've gone missing, I don't think this can be considered a rescue mission anymore. Temperatures on the mountain have dipped into the teens with more snow on the way. Avalanche danger is high and the upcoming forecast is not promising. While I'd love to think that they used their ice picks to make a snow cave and the two of them have been huddled in there keeping warm, by day four, it's not likely that they'd still have food or fuel for water. I think it's safe to say any further work is a recovery mission. I can only hope that all of the climbers, in light of the "something bad that happened" were able to be at peace in their final moments. There were out there in the wilds, doing what they loved in a place that they loved and if you ask me, that's a pretty good way to go. I for one, have always longed to go out they way Jack London described death in his tale "To Build a Fire". In this story, the man... left out in harsh winter conditions finally lost to the bitter freezing cold. After painful bouts of shivering, with his limbs losing control and sensation, a feeling of calmness and drowsiness came over him. Much like taking an anesthetic, "the man drowsed off into what seemed to him the most the most comfortable and satisfying sleep he had ever known".

My prayers go out to the families and loved ones of the climbers from last week's incident. I also send out kind thoughts and regards for the others who have lost on the mountain. And, I pray for safe travels and returns to all those who venture forth. Remember, you never really conquer the mountain, you are just spared from it from time to time.

I will close with my personal prayer that I repeat in moments of weakness, danger and uncertainty. It is a variation of Habakkuk 3:17-19 found in the Old Testament, (granted... it's not the exact text, but the meaning is the same and it's just the way it comes out of my mouth): "The Lord, God is my saviour, may he give me the strength of a deer to make it safely over the mountains."

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For a look at the mountain and search and rescue efforts, check out this video shot by a local news station helicopter.

Also, this rages the debate if rescue beacons should be mandated for climbers. I've save my thoughts on that for a later post.